Nestled in West End, Gum Bistro is at the forefront of ‘bistronomy’ in Brisbane.
Bistronomy has actually been around since the 1990s but was named by Sebastien Demorand, a food critic and journalist, in the early 2000s. It was started in France as a rebellion against the atmosphere and prices of Michelin fine dining, to make quality restaurant food accessible and affordable so more people can experience it.
Bistronomy allows for a love of food and an enjoyment of the experience, rather than excluding most people. It focuses on local, seasonal ingredients that support independent farms, the chef’s creativity and specialty, a friendly, relaxed restaurant atmosphere and a focus on the customer.
Gum Bistro's location is the former site of Pasta Club, which seemed to fit the relaxed West End aesthetic well. The new establishment, however, takes a slightly different path, steering towards contemporary local cuisine, seasonal produce, with an eclectic but measured selection.
This transformation is not just a change of name and decor but a complete reimagining, emphasising seasonality and a thoughtfully curated wine list.
In a world dominated by supermarkets offering out-of-season produce at inflated prices, we've forgotten the concept of seasonality. Gum Bistro reminds us that it's okay for produce to be unavailable sometimes because it's not in season. This restaurant celebrates what's fresh and good at the moment, rather than offering what's Instagrammable.
Something about Gum also struck everybody at the table as refreshing: Gum Bistro's authenticity. It doesn't chase trends or rely on gimmicks. Instead, it delivers genuine, high-quality dishes. Sharing plates is the way to go here, and we tried almost everything on the menu.
I suggest you do the same.
Highlights from The Meal:
Brawn: This traditional terrine made from the head of a pig might not be for everyone, but for those who appreciate charcuterie, it’s a delightful offering. Rich and savoury, it’s inventive.
Fried Cauliflower: A nod to modern vegetarian cuisine, this dish is a standout. Fried caulifower, Epoisses cream, onion, sherry caramel. The cauliflower is perfectly crispy on the outside while maintaining a tender inside. (Epoisses is a soft cheese).
Pipis, oyster mushroom, young ginger, basil. A revelation of a dish. Salty, fleshy, earthy, unctuous. Clever.
Autumn Vegetable Pot Pie: I usually don’t like pies. Blame school tuckshops, football games and supermarket freezers. It’s taken me a lot to get over my pie prejudice, although Jackman & McRoss in Hobart has certainly helped - their pies are incredible. This is perhaps the star of the menu, it’s an insanely comforting dish filled with a medley of great vegetables.
Margra lamb rump, shoulder and sweetbread with beans and radicchio. Another hit!
Potato Pave, aioli: it’s layered potato with garlic and oil, what is there not to love?
Apple tarte tatin and calvados Chantilly: a classic dessert, the calvados with the cream works so well.
Pricing (because, cost of living): With mains around $40 each and sides between $12 and $20, Gum Bistro is reasonably priced given the quality of ingredients and standard of cooking.
The wine list is as thoughtfully curated as the menu, featuring diverse selections that perfectly complement the dishes. The staff's attention to wine selection is evident and appreciated, and the service in general was that great mix of unobtrusive and casual yet involved and not aloof.
There’s a style to the food at Gum that is subtle yet incredibly flavourful. Highly recommended.